Join us for the Pineapple and Pine July CAL and crochet a beautiful tunic, cardi, or sweater with three amazing free summer top crochet patterns!
“You can either fight the waves, or you can ride them.”Nikki Banas
One of my favorite things to do is to spend a day jumping the waves at the beach.
The ocean is my spirit animal. I just love everything about it from the smell of the salt when you get out of the car to the feeling of the waves washing over me. It’s such a beautiful place to be. There is nothing quite like sitting on the sand early in the morning and watching all the crabs sneak out of their holes while the sun rises. I enjoy searching for shells and then experiencing that feeling of joy when I find one that has managed to remain unbroken by the surf. I love wading out and jumping the waves, diving headfirst into them, or floating on top of them. For me, it’s a place to reflect on life from the happy times to the painful times. I experience all. the. emotions. at the beach.
One aspect I particularly love about the beach is the waves. There is something awe-inspiring about the steady rhythm as they ebb and flow against the sand. I love the feeling of a wave washing over me. I get excited when I see a big one coming my way and letting it lift me up and lower me down. But. Sometimes, I get the timing wrong, and you can guess what happens next. I roll and tumble head over heels in the water getting pounded into the sand until I finally get my bearings and come up with eyes, nose, mouth and throat full of salt water. Waves are powerful.
As we were choosing stitches for this summer top crochet along, I knew I wanted something that represented me and my brand. When I came across the open waves stitch, I knew that it was perfect! I fell in love right away with the texture and design that this stitch has. The chains really do ebb and flow throughout the garment just like waves do!
So many circumstances in life come our way just like a wave. Sometimes, they are happy moments, and we can see them coming. We get excited and anticipate the it, and we let the wave carry us up and lower us down afterwards. Sometimes, they are painful moments. It catches us off guard and we aren’t able to brace ourselves. Then before we know it, we are floundering in the water, and when we finally come up, we are choking in its wake. The only thing to do in these moments is to let the wave do its thing until you are strong enough to overcome it. It’s going to hurt. It’s going to feel like you’ve lost control. But eventually, you’ll be able to stand up again, cough up the water, and embrace the next wave that comes your way.
So, as you join us for this summer top crochet along , I hope the waves in the stitch pattern will inspire you to embrace every aspect of life, the good and the bad. Each wave of life brings with it new trials, new joys, and…
- 1. Week One – July 6-12 – hosted by Crafting for Weeks
- 2. Week Two – July 13-19 – hosted by Carol Hladik Designs
- 3. Week Three – July 20-26 – hosted by A Plush Pineapple
- 4. Week Four – July 27-31 – hosted by Crafting for Weeks
Skill Level – Intermediate
Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links to the products used in this project. If you make a purchase through any of these links, we will get a small commission at no additional cost to you.
- Size US 7/4.5mm crochet hook (or size needed to obtain gauge)
- Cotton or cotton blend yarn in DK (3) weight – I used Paintbox cotton by Love Crafts in Light Caramel.
- Approximately 1,230 (1,310, 1,390, 1,475, 1,560, 1,645) yards
- Tapestry needle
- Measuring tape
- 870-2150 yards of DK (weight 3) Cotton Yarn
- Size H (5.0mm) crochet hook
- Tapestry needle
- Measuring Tape
- Paint Box Yarn Cotton Aran in Vintage Pink (See chart for yardage)
- Size H 5.0 mm crochet hook (or size to obtain gauge)
- Stitch markers
- Needle for weaving in ends
- Gauge: 4” x 4” = 3 repeats of wave stitch (18 stitches in foundation chain) x 13 rows
- BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE – Gauge is crucial in this project in order to ensure fit.
- See special stitches section for gauge pattern.
- Open Waves Stitch: 11 stitches (chains don’t count) x 12 rows= 4” square
- Trinity Stitch: 16 stitches + 16 rows = 4” square (Note: 4 rows trim = 1”)
- Gauge: Trinity Stitch; 5 trinity stitches x 9 rows in 3”
|Size||Bust (2-4” positive ease)||Length (Front Panel/Back Panel)||Approx. Yardage|
|X-Small||32 ½”||28”/25 ½”||1,230|
|Small||36 ½”||28”/25 ½”||1,310|
|Medium||40 ½”||28”/25 ½”||1,390|
|Large||44 ½”||30 ½”/28”||1,475|
|X-Large||48 ½”||30 ½”/28”||1,560|
|2XL||52 ½”||30 ½”/28”||1,645|
|Size||Bust (4-6” positive ease)||Length (Front Panel/Back Panel)||Approx. Yardage|
- CH – Chain
- ST – Stitch(es)
- SK – Skip
- SC – Single Crochet
- DC – Double Crochet
- CH: Chain
- YO: Yarn Over
- SP: Space
- DC2TOG: Double Crochet 2 stitches together
- SC3tog – Single crochet three together
- SL ST – Slip stitch
- WS – Wrong side
- RS – Right side
- This sweater is designed with 2 ½ – 4” of positive ease in the bust measurement so that it has a relaxed, comfortable fit.
- The length in the front and back panels differs by 2 ½” with the front being longer than the back.
- This garment is made from rectangular panels that are crocheted as flat pieces back and forth in rows. The stitching runs parallel to body length. In other words, instead of working from the bottom up, you will be working from side to side. One panel is made for the back, and two panels are made for the front. The panels are then seamed together at the shoulders and on the sides. Yarn is joined to the armholes and the sleeves are crocheted in the round.
- Beginning CH stitches do not count as a stitch.
- Anytime a CH is worked into, I worked into the back bump. This gets tricky at times, but yields a better look.
- Size changes are in parentheses XS (S, M, L, XL, XXL) respectively.
- Chains at the beginning of the rows do not count as stitches throughout this pattern.
- This pattern is written in increments of 10 + 3 stitches. To increase the length of the tunic, add stitches in increments of 10 (approx 2”) to the foundation chain.
- When working the trinity stitch, tops of stitches and chain 1 spaces count as a stitch.
- When working trinity stitch into open wave stitch, for the first row, you will work 2 “legs” of the trinity stitch into each chain 3 space. For best results, work into the chain spaces and not around them.
- Pattern sizes are noted in the following manner (X-Small, Small, Medium, Large, XLarge, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL)
- The number of stitches for sizes will be in parenthesis as follows: (XS, S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL)
- This cardigan is worked from the bottom up.
Open Waves Stitch
Below is a full video tutorial for completing the Open Waves Stitch.
Hooray! Hooray! It’s time to start the Summer Waves CAL! Who’s excited?! I’ve been waiting for this moment for a long time, and it’s finally here! Week One is hosted by Kelsie of Crafting for Weeks. You can find Week One of the pattern for ALL THREE garment designs by clicking/tapping the button below! Happy Making!
Are you enjoying the CAL so far? I hope that you love the open waves stitch. I truly enjoy how it flows easily on my hook and works up quickly. Now that we have finished Week One, we are ready to work on Week Two! Week Two is hosted by Carol of Carol Hladik Designs. You can find Week Two of the pattern for ALL THREE garment designs by clicking/tapping the button below!
Wow! Can you even believe that Week Three is already here? This is the point in the project where you are too far into it to quit but not quite close enough to the end to be excited. Week Three is hosted right here by me, yours truly, A Plush Pineapple! So let’s get started!
Before seaming, block all three panels to the specified measurements for your size. This is a very important step as it gives the garment structure and consistency!
I blocked my panels by pinning each panel to a blocking board, laying a damp pillow case over each panel, and pressing it on high until the pillow case was dry. Be sure to allow the panels time to dry completely before removing them from the blocking board.
Lay the back panel and one front panel right sides up with shoulder edges touching. Using the mattress stitch, stitch the edges together grabbing two stitches from the front panel for every one stitch of the back panel. This will create a gathered look on the shoulders.
Repeat on other side.
With right sides of the panels facing up, join yarn (approx 1 yard in length) to the 21st stitch from the bottom of the back edge of one of the front panels and seam 57 (57, 57, 64, 64, 64) stitches to the back panel using the mattress stitch. Be sure that the stitches are lining up as you go. This should give you a total of 72 (72, 72, 78, 78, 78) around the arm opening. Be sure to check this number as the stitch pattern for the sleeve is very specific.
Repeat on other side.
Turn the sweater so that the bottom is on your right, the neck is on your left, and the armhole is at the top of your work.
Join yarn to Row 53 (53, 53, 50, 50, 50) of the front panel.
Round 1: CH 3 (counts as 1 DC and CH 1), DC in same stitch as CH (counts as first V stitch), *SK 2, [DC, CH 1, DC] in next stitch*, repeat from * to * around, join to 2nd CH (back bump) of the beginning CH with a SL ST. (24, 24, 24, 26, 26, 26 V clusters)
Round 2: CH 3, (counts as 1 DC and CH 1), DC in same stitch as CH (counts as first V stitch), *[DC, CH 1, DC] in next CH 1 space*, repeat from * to * around, join to 2nd CH (back bump) of the beginning CH with a SL ST. (24, 24, 24, 26, 26, 26 V clusters)
Round 3: Repeat Round 2.
*Every 4th round will be a decrease round. This will be achieved by combining the first V stitch and the last V stitch (at the join) into one V stitch. Half of the V stitch will be created at the beginning of the round, and the other half will be created at the end of the round when you join.
**The round after each decrease row is begun a little differently. Be sure to follow the round instructions carefully.
Round 4: CH 1, SL ST in first CH 1 space, CH 2 (counts as 1 DC – ½ of V stitch), *[DC, CH 1, DC] in next CH 1 space*, repeat from * to * until you reach the last CH 1 space, [DC, CH 1] (counts as 2nd ½ of 1st V stitch), in last CH 1 space, join to top of 1st CH. (23, 23, 23, 25, 25, 25 V clusters)
Round 5: CH 1, SL ST in same space as CH 1, SL ST in the next CH 1 space, CH 3, (counts as 1 DC and CH 1), DC in same stitch as CH (counts as first V stitch), *[DC, CH 1, DC] in next CH 1 space*, repeat from * to * around, join to 2nd CH (back bump) of the beginning CH with a SL ST. (23, 23, 23, 25, 25, 25 V clusters)
Round 6-7: Repeat Round 2.
Round 8-47: Repeat Rounds 4-7 decreasing 1 V cluster every 4th round (Rounds 4, 8, 12, 16, 20, 24, 28, 32, 36, 40, and 44 are decrease rounds). Round 47 should have 13, 13, 13, 15, 15, 15 V clusters.
Round 48: Repeat Round 4. (12, 12, 12, 14, 14, 14 V clusters)
Cut yarn. FO. Weave in ends.
Repeat on other side.
Make a second panel.
TRIM (Trinity Stitch)
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook. *Pull up a loop in same ch as last stitch, then pull up a loop in each of the next two stitches (4 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through 4 loops. Ch 1.* Repeat from * to * across until 2 stitches remain. Pull up a loop in same ch as last stitch, then pull up a loop in each of the next two stitches. Yarn over and pull through 4 loops. Sc in last stitch (same space as previous stitch). (263,263,273,273,283,283,293,293,303)
Row 2: Ch 1 and turn. Sc in first stitch. *Pull up a loop in same space as last stitch, then pull up a loop in top of the next stitch and in the ch space (4 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through 4 loops. Ch 1.* Repeat from * to * across until 2 stitches remain. Pull up a loop in same stitch as last stitch, then pull up a loop in top of the next stitch and the ch space. Yarn over and pull through 4 loops. Sc in last stitch (same space as previous stitch). (263,263,273,273,283,283,293,293,303)
Row 3-4: Repeat Row 2
BODY (Open Wave Stitch)
Row 5: Ch 2 and turn. *Dc 3, ch 3, sk 2 st, sc 3, ch 3, sk 2 st.* Repeat from * to * until 5 stitches remain. Ch 3, sk 2 st, dc 3. (159,159,165,165,171,171,177,177,183)
Row 6: Ch 1 and turn. *Sc 3 in top of dc, ch 3, sk ch spaces, dc 3 in top of sc.* Repeat across until 3 stitches remain. Ch 3, sc 3 in top of dc. (159,159,165,165,171,171,177,177,183)
Row 7: Ch 2 and turn. *Dc 3 in top of sc, ch 3, sk ch spaces, sc 3 in top of dc.* Repeat across until 3 stitches remain. Ch 3, dc 3 in top of sc. (159,159,165,165,171,171,177,177,183)
Repeat Rows 6 -7 until work measures for a total of (22,25,28,31,34,37,40,43,46) rows of the wave stitch or until work measures approx. (8.5”,9.5”,10.5”,11.5”,12.5”,13.5”,14.5”,15.5”,16.5”) wide when lightly stretched.
TRIM (Trinity Stitch)
For the second set of trim, you will be working the trinity stitch. In Row 1, you will work 2 “legs” of the trinity stitch into each chain 3 space. Work into the first and second chain space and skip the third. To simplify reading, I will refer to all sc, dc, and the 2 ch spaces as “stitch” in this section. For best results, work into the chain spaces and not around them.
Row 1: Ch 1 and turn. Sc in first stitch. *Pull up a loop in same space as last stitch, then pull up a loop in top of the next two stitches (4 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through 4 loops. Ch 1.* Repeat from * to * across until 2 stitches remain. Pull up a loop in same stitch as last stitch, then pull up a loop in top of the next two stitches. Yarn over and pull through 4 loops. Sc in last stitch (same space as previous stitch). (263,263,273,273,283,283,293,293,303)
Row 2: Row 2: Ch 1 and turn. Sc in first stitch. *Pull up a loop in same space as last stitch, then pull up a loop in top of the next stitch and in the ch space (4 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through 4 loops. Ch 1.* Repeat from * to * across until 2 stitches remain. Pull up a loop in same stitch as last stitch, then pull up a loop in top of the next stitch and the ch space. Yarn over and pull through 4 loops. Sc in last stitch (same space as previous stitch). (263,263,273,273,283,283,293,293,303)
Tie off and leave approx. 24-36” tail for seaming.
Back Panel: Will be worked between the second set of marked stitches. Reattach yarn into the first unworked marked stitch on the right side of top.
Row 50: Ch 2 (counts as a DC), SK1, **“DC, ch1, DC” all in same stitch (V stitch made), SK2**, repeat pattern across until 3 stitches remain, V stitch, SK1, DC in last stitch, turn.
Row 51: Ch 2 (counts as a DC), Work a V stitch into each ch1 space in middle of each V of previous row, DC into top of ch2, turn.
Rows 52 – 59, 59, 61, 61, 63, 63, 65, 65: Repeat Row 51
Row 60, 60, 62, 62, 64, 64, 66, 66: SC across, F/O (47, 53, 53, 59, 59, 65, 65, 65)
Fold the Front Right Panel inward and line up the inside corner with the corner of the Back Panel. Using a Mattress stitch attach the two panels together. Repeat for the Front Left Panel. Turn garment outside in so the seam is on the inside of the garment.
Are you ready to get those Summer Waves Tops all finished up? Finishing details can really take your project to the next level, and we have some really fun details for you with these patterns! From pockets to trim to split sides, you will love the finished look of your garment.
That brings this CAL to a close! We had a wonderful time hosting this CAL, and we hope that you enjoyed it. If you are making this pattern after the CAL has concluded, you can still post your progress photos in the Facebook group for all of us to see! You can also purchase the PDF versions of both the adult and child versions by tapping on the links below. If you’d like to make a child’s size, check out the Summer Waves Child’s Top post. Be sure to join the Facebook group and subscribe to our newsletter so you know about future CALs!